Leh - Ladakh

The transition from Cairo to Leh was an easy one. Landing at 3.500 m left me breathless – marvelling on breathing the cool clean air. We feasted on Indian curries – to Jos’ horror meat was not easily available however he fell upon each tasty meal. Our room in the guest house out of town had windows facing the monastery and mountains. The owner was the mayor of Leh and we loved his insight to local culture and issues.
First we tackled the Sham track run by the Snow Leopard Conservancy following an old trade route through villages and over mountain passes. We stayed with families in their home, enjoying being part of everyday life; we watched them making butter, tending the animals, gardening as they prepared for the nine month winter ahead.

This trek was good preparation for our big nine day trek. Our entourage of guide, cook and pony man as well as six ponies seemed a bit over the top however we never regretted the help as we crossed nine mountain passes up to an altitude of 5.200m. With thin air the altitude affected us with nausea and headaches – it was a test of endurance. Along the way we saw marmots, golden eagles, lamagiers, and nomadic pashmina goat herders. It was chilly on the tops but dry as it should be at this time of the year. After a month of enjoying Ladakh, its’ warm people and culture, we headed down to Manali. It was a horrendous two day bus trip over narrow, unsealed track over rugged terrain with sheer drops centimetres from the wheels. Numerous truck wrecks reminded us how tenuous the route was.